My husband and I wanted to add a little curb appeal to our house by taking our plain old front porch posts and adding field stone column bases and beefing up the posts into columns. We wanted a little curb appeal. We got a LOT of curb appeal! And we did it ourselves.

This project initially came to mind because the soil in our San Diego yard is VERY rocky and we have tons of field stone that has been dug up over the years from various projects. We thought, why not use it?! We began by looking for professional stone masons to do the job since we did not know how to. What we found was that the few people we called did not know how either. I am sure there are folks out there who still do this kind of work but we could not find them. I think since most people use cultured stone, stone veneer or concrete these days to simulate real field stone it is just not cost effective any more. That brings us to the second thing we realized; even if we had found someone, after doing the work ourselves and seeing the time it takes, we probably would not have been willing to pay what a professional would need to charge. It would just be too expensive. So if you want the look of real field stone columns (you can tell the difference if they are not) you can do it yourself cheap, but it will take some time and effort. But wow! The look is worth it!

We did some practice projects first which only reinforced the fact that we did not know how to do this. They just did not look right. We realized from looking at other people’s columns that the important thing was that the corner stones needed to be stacked on top of each other to make the column a square. We found a simple diagram on line that showed how to install guide lines at the corners of where you want your columns to be so you can follow these lines and keep your corners straight.

The following instructions are not meant to be exhaustive, but rather to give you a good idea of how the project will go and what it entails. You will need to do more research on the technical details you may need to know before being able to complete this project.

You will first need to determine what diameter you want your columns to be and how high you want them to go. Ours are approximately 18 inches per side and about 3 feet high. You must begin by pouring concrete bases for your columns to rest on for sturdy support. Then if you are building around existing wood posts as we were, you must waterproof the posts. We used roofing tar. After the guide lines are in place, (we used simple string lines taped in place from floor to ceiling. Be sure they are at at true vertical!) the stone work can begin. It is really quite simple but does take attention to detail and time. My husband and I worked as a team and we each had our jobs to do.

Mix up a batch of mortar, you will need enough to set two courses of stone for each column (2 high) and you will want the mortar to be on the thick side. Two courses of stone are all you can really do at a time or the weight of the stone and mortar will place too much pressure on what is below it and cause it to squish out. We did 4 columns and started by just working on 1 until we felt we knew we were doing a good job. After that we worked on the remaining 3 simultaneously, doing 2 courses on each of the three at at time. Between courses the mortar must set for several hours before laying the next course on top. You will quickly become familiar with the mortar and how it feels and behaves as it is setting and will be able to judge when it is time to set the next courses. Also refer to the instructions on the bag.

On the bottom level use a trowel and lay a base of mortar for your first course of stones to set in. An inch or two of mortar is sufficient. Choose your stones (they should be at least softball size or larger) and place them carefully so that the corner stones line up just inside the string and the other stones are nicely spaced and with attractive sides facing out. Then begin to fill in all around them, packing the mortar without moving the stones. Be sure to get all the air pockets out and add enough on top of your first stones to place your second layer. Feel free to use much smaller stones to fill in the interior areas that will not be seen.

While working, do not worry about getting mortar on the outside of your stones. Keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge nearby and as long as you wipe the residue off within a half hour or so you will have no problem. You will find as you work that there is a certain artistry to this work and you can work with the mortar blending and shaping it for quite some time as it dries. In the same way, blending the mortar between the courses is easy and when you are done and all the mortar is set it will be impossible to see where one course of stones ended and another began. The mortar blends perfectly.

After you have set your first 2 layers of stones use your hands (always wearing gloves as you work, the mortar is very caustic to skin) to shape the mortar and push it into place where you want it as it dries. After the mortar has begun to set, work with the water and sponge smoothing the mortar and shaping it and cleaning off the outsides of the stones so they do not have a film on them. In this way you will proceed with all the courses of stone until the columns are as high as you want them to be. When you reach your desired height be sure to have the top be as level as possible and then add capstones of some type to give it a finished look. We used travertine tiles attached by building a jig to hold them in place while the mortar dried since we had to work around an existing post.

For our final step we beefed up the posts by wrapping them in 1 x 6 lumber, and trimmed the tops and bottoms with 2 x 2 lumber. Be sure to prime and paint all wood surfaces to protect against rain and water intrusion.

This is a great Do It Yourself project. It can be time consuming, each section of work may take a couple of hours when you take into account mixing the mortar, laying the stones, doing the finishing work and cleaning your tools, but the results are satisfying and well worth it for this classic look.

Kristine Clemenger writes on a variety of different topics most of which focus on natural health.

Please visit her website at http://wellspringsandiego.com

In today’s post we are going to discuss how to build a block foundation and the tools you will need to complete this task. You should have a good construction knowledge and be in good physical shape before attempting to do this. One thing you should do though is have the hole dug and the footers in place by a licensed excavator to ensure you at least have a good starting point.

Lets go over what you will need for this job first, you will need a cement mixer, partner saw, wheelbarrow, mortar boards,a laser for elevations, scaffolding and plank if you are building a basement. The hand tools you will need are a trowel, hammer, striker, chalk box, line, line bars and a 2ft and 4ft. level.

So lets get started, with your footers in place the first you need to do is layout your job and mark all of your corners with a concrete nail or a pencil. This can be a time consuming process so be sure you have someone to help you measure everything out to be square. After you have you corners marked take your chalk box and pull it from corner to corner and snap a line mark down onto your footer, this is the line that your block will follow.

Next you will need to establish your elevations with your laser, i recommend you get a self leveling laser because the slightest error in this step can be very bad in getting your foundation level. Establish which corner is the highest and use it to set all of your other heights. Be sure to mark each corner with how much you need to raise it so you don’t get confused.

Now it is time to build your leads, with all your corners marked lay in your first course, if you need to raise a corner try to do as much as you can if the first course. Use jamb block for your corners, ones without ears on them it will make the job look nicer and they are much easier to level up as well. You can get up to about 1 inch of height with a heavy bead of mortar under your first course, hopefully all your corners are close from your excavators work. Run 4 block out in one direction then 3 block in the other direction for your first course and then lay the subsequent courses on top dropping back 1/2 of a block in each course in each direction till you are left with one block at the top. Check your elevations frequently with your laser to be sure that all your corners are working out to be the same height. It is very important that leads are level, square and plum, this will make the whole job alot easier if it is.

After all your leads are up attach your line to your line bar and pull it tight from one lead to another on the same course. Spread your mortar down the chalk lines and start laying block, try to line the bottom of the block up with the chalk line and the top of the block with the top line. after that course is in it gets a bit easier be sure that your block aren’t lipping over at bottom and keep running them to the top line but be sure that none of the block touch the line, stay off of it about 1/8 inch and you should be good. Continue this process over and over till your walls are up and job is complete, also be sure to strike and brush your wall frequently to be sure that it is sealed good. Also every two courses it is a good idea to put a layer of derwal between the courses, it is required by code in some areas.

If you are still unsure on how to do this project hire a qualified contractor to complete the job for you. Block foundation costs are still typically cheaper than poured walls, about 30% or so and they are just as good or better in most cases because the masons have much more control over heights of corners thus leaving you a more level finished project. And if you want you can then fill all your block with concrete thus giving you a solid block, concrete wall. It is also a good idea to drop a piece of rebar in every 4 foot as well and pack it in with concrete, this is also sometimes required by code.

Professional Mason Contractor
block foundation cost
block foundation

Why flagstone? If I were to try and sell you on the glory or attributes of flagstone, it would be an unfair challenge to be sure. Flagstone is such a versatile and popular product that it needs no one to try and blow its trumpet because it does so well enough by itself. It needs no sponsor or pitchman. One brief visit to your well equipped local plant nursery or garden center will be enough to sell you on the beauty, rusticity, versatility and practicality of this magical stone.

Flagstone is easier to work with than brick or tiles. It is also easier to lay because both brick and tile do best laid with cement. Flagstone is more than not laid on sand or crushed stone. So much so that flagstone has become a favorite choice by the amateur homeowner who would like to be able to boast that he or she built, with their own hands, the flagstone patio or walkway that their guest is walking on. The ease of use because of flagstone’s varied sizes and shapes and forms and the diversity of its colors and hues make flagstone one of the more popular and proven garden and building products available today.

If you feel that you do not have the imagination it takes to design your own garden using flagstone, do not despair. It will be well worth the time and effort to visit your nearest home and garden center to thumb through the many garden and home improvement magazines to give you ideas of how and where flagstone can be used throughout your garden and even your home. Better still, sign up for one or more of your home improvement’s free classes that they offer on ‘how to’ lay and use flagstone. As they will surely tell you, you do not have to be a mason to lay flagstone and to do such a good job that you can boast to everyone that you are the builder of these amazing creations. So, your class is over and you have finished going through all the magazines on the shelves. What do you do next?

Well, one valid and useful suggestion is to drag that drawing pad or notebook from where it has been shelved and, with pen in hand, sit on a comfortable chair and try to look objectively at your garden and general outdoor area. Without a doubt and within a short time, your creative juices and your imagination will surely begin to work together and before you know it, you will have put down on paper many of the wonderful garden projects that can be built using that versatile, charming and rustic stone known as flagstone.

If you don’t mind sharing the glory with someone else, then invite one of your friends to sit with you and brainstorm together on the whats and hows and how-longs and before you know it, you will both be bragging and boasting about how easy and effortless and satisfying and enjoyable all your garden projects have been. It is right at this point that your friend will turn to you and say “okay, now it’s my turn. When can you come over and help me out?”. Now look at what you have done, you and ‘flagstone’!

I personally have years of experience working with flagstone. One of my speculates is installing flagstone patios and paths. I’ve complied all my tips and techniques in an easy to follow step by step picture guide that will take you by the hand as I show you How To Lay Flagstone.

If you plan on laying a flagstone patio or walkway then my site “How To Flagstone” will help you understand exactly how a professional stone mason builds a dry laid patio.

To support the weight of the fireplace and chimney, provision must be made in the foundation plans. Most plans use a solid reinforcement for concrete footer. This footer is usually 12″ (305mm) thick and extends at least 12″ (305mm) past the perimeter of the chimney.

Fireplaces are designed in three types:

1. Constructed totally on the site.
2. Using a manufactured firebox and flue system.
3. Freestanding units.

Major components of fireplace and chimney structure:

1. firebox
2. chimney
3. smoke chamber
4. flue support
5. damper
6. throat
7. steel anchor straps
8. cap
9. terra cotta flue lining
10. face
11. smoke shelf
12. angle-iron brace
13. hearth
14. ash pit
15. footing

Fireplace

The main part of the fireplace is the firebox. The firebox reflects heat and draws smoke up the chimney. Included in the firebox are the sides, back, smoke chamber, flue, throat and damper. Most of the fireboxes are constructed in a factory. The constructor places the firebox in the proper location in the chimney construction and lines it with firebrick. Materials used in fireplaces and chimneys is usually of brick, stone or concrete. Hearth should be constructed of fire-resistant material such as brick, tile, marble or stone. The best method of drawing the construction details of a fireplace is to prepare a sectional drawing. This will show the position of the firebox and the size of materials used in the footer, hearth, face, flue and cap of the chimney. Showing also the relationship of the chimney to the floor and ceiling lines of the structure.

Chimney

Extending from the footer through the roof of the house is the chimney. The footer must be of sufficient size to support the entire weight of the chimney. The chimney extends above the roof line. Its height above the roof line varies, local building codes in most areas scale its distance as 2′ (610mm). The chimney is secured to ceiling and floor joists by iron straps embedded in the brick work. The constructor must also indicate the type and size of flues to be inserted in the chimney. One flue is necessary for each fireplace or furnace leading into the chimney. Fireplaces add warmth and atmosphere to a room. However, most of the heat produced by some fireplaces goes up the chimney. To reduce this heat loss and redirect some of this heat, warm-air outlets, balanced by cold-air outlets, can be installed.

Prefabricated fireplaces

Freestanding metal fireplaces constructed of heavy gauge steel are available in a variety of shapes. They are relatively light wood burning stoves and therefore need no concrete foundation for support. A stove pipe leading into the chimney provides the exhaust flue. Prefabricated fireplaces do not require a foundation to support their weight. They are complete, ready-to-install fireplaces. Nevertheless, a fire-resistant material such as concrete brick, stone or tile must be used beneath and around these fireplaces.

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Solar lighted stepping stones are a unique and innovative way to enhance the beauty of garden. It not only illuminates the garden, park, yards or walkways but also gives an added touch of beauty to the particular area.

Solar lighted stepping stone works through solar power light. Solar energy during the day time charges the NiCad battery and as the evening starts approaching it turns its bright white light on at dusk.

Solar lighted stepping stones are exclusive works of art which doesn’t require any wires to install, no bills to pay and the Led never needs to be replaced. But that is not all the illumination time of bulb is of 8 hours. So it will glow all through the night and you do not have to worry about any bills to be paid.

Be it decorating your house, lighting the lawn or creating your walkway, this is a unique way of doing so. You can also make an innovative use of catchy colors on these solar lighted stepping stones to give them a better and captivating appearance.

In this fast paced life just a mere glance of these solar lighted stepping stones in the evening time may give you another reason to sit in your garden for a while and relax. These are also available in multiple types and you can buy according to your preference.

For your better understanding we have discussed about few types solar lighted stepping stones so that you know which ones suit you the most.

Tuscany Stepping Stone: As discussed above they are quite innovative, efficient and unique which illuminates yards, gardens, lawns, walkways, in private and public places. The chief feature of this solar lighted stone is that it is built in solar powered light. Solar energy charges the inbuilt AA NiCad battery during the day and gets lighted during the night. You can easily place it in your garden and there is no use of wiring so no bills to pay.

Solar garden lights: Also known as pagoda light it is often used to lighten the garden. The solar inbuilt feature makes sure you that you are not going to pay your electricity bills. It charges during the day and emits light as the night comes. This light is powered by high powered crystal solar cell. The NiCad battery gives a long life to the lights. The high intensity of 4 watt of fluorescent lamp can continuously deliver light up to 5 hours.

Low voltage lighting: The soft displaying light leaves an impression and will suit you. Low voltage landscape lighting flower light contains six flowers, low-voltage transformer, stakes, clear bulbs, and connectors. Six different colors of flowers produce different colors will surely bring great happiness to you.

These are just a few of the varieties of solar stepping stones. You can explore a lot more options with these devices which help you not only light up your garden but also act as great energy savers.

Rock fireplaces hearken to a time when uniform bricks where not always available. Beautiful by design, these fireplaces have a long tradition of being the option of choice in homes all around the world.

Unlike their brick counterparts, rock fireplaces can work very well in a number of different settings. These designs can be made to look very upscale and “expensive,” or they can be crafted to offer a more down-home rustic feel. Those who choose to add rock fireplaces to their home’s design will find they have a few options available to them. These include:

Real rock: Real rock fireplaces are generally very expensive, but when they are created correctly they will last for a lifetime and beyond. Many of these fireplaces made hundreds of years ago still handle fires very well and require little maintenance beyond normal cleaning and minor repairs. The pricing involved in real rock comes from the difficulty in finding the right materials and ensuring they are properly cut to create a fireplace.

Fake rock: This is an option that has come and gone in popularity, but the truth is it can be the more affordable way to go. Faux rock fireplaces give the illusion of real rock and they can be rather sturdy by design without costing nearly as much.

Anyone wanting to add a rock fireplace to their home will find they have a few hoops to go through. In most regions, the addition of a fireplace to a house is considered a structural change. Inasmuch, an actual architectural design will likely be required along with a building permit. Inspections, too, will likely follow to ensure the rock fireplaces added have not made the home structurally unsound or unsafe.

Despite some government imposed hurdles, many homeowners choose to add rock fireplaces to older homes and even include them in the original designs of new construction. These creations can add a sense of “home” to a house that few other features can.

The options to actually add a rock fireplace to a house really present in only two fashions. They are:

Contractor: Hiring a contract to add a fireplace to a house can add to the expense involved, but it can also give peace of mind. When a masonry expert does the work, it will generally be guaranteed, which is always a good thing. Plus, these folks know how to handle the permitting process and other things that might be required to ensure the construction is within the code.

Self: Do it yourselfers can and do create rock fireplaces. Many times they will use fake rock to keep the expenses down, but it’s a good idea to still ensure all permitting that might be required is taken care of in advance.

Rock fireplaces offer a certain charm that goes beyond brick. By creating a homey feel or an upscale feel, these fireplaces add warmth and even value to a home.

There’s nothing quite as attractive as brick for bringing a classic look to a house. Brick veneer has become an oft-used option for modern homebuilders to reduce costs, while still retaining the look that brick offers. This construction method uses standard stick-framed walls, while placing a veneer layer of brick over the outside walls. This results in quicker (and cheaper) construction, while still giving the appearance of a full brick house. Unfortunately, this method presents inherent problems- namely, moisture entering the bricks. Therefore, waterproofing brick veneer is a necessity for all aspects of upkeep, appearance and structural stability.

When a brick veneer wall is left untreated, moisture will seep into the interior walls, especially around window frames. Additionally, the moisture will begin to degrade both the appearance and performance of the brick veneer. White stains (known as “Efflorescence”) may appear on the brick; they are the result of water dissolving the natural substances in the brick. More importantly, this moisture will freeze within the brick and expand. This causes a condition known as “Spalling” and will cause the brick to crumble and flake. Waterproofing brick veneer prevents both of these conditions by preventing the buildup of moisture.

While it is true that brick veneer walls will (under the best conditions only) tend to absorb and evaporate liquid on their own- that is, without any waterproof coating- homeowners cannot ensure that their brick veneer can always handle the demands that the environment places on it. The smart and sensible solution is to take steps to prevent this moisture as much as possible, in the best manner available.

There are a countless number of products that can be found for waterproofing brick veneer. However, some of these products can do far more harm than good; all-purpose surface sealers may seem like a good idea, but they are commonly acrylic or silicone based. These materials (when applied for the purpose of waterproofing brick veneer) will prevent water vapor from escaping from the interior of the house, and will therefore cause spalling.

So what’s the solution? The best waterproofing tips for brick all recommended the use of a penetrating siloxane based sealer. Siloxane is a waterproofing material for brick that allows the sealant to chemically bond itself to the brick. This process allows the brick to be impenetrable against liquid water, while still allowing it to breath- and therefore greatly reduces the chances of spalling or any other damage to your brick veneer.

By following these guidelines, you can be sure that your brick veneer is safe for years to come, and that it will provide long-lasting performance. Your house’s beautiful exterior can be easily preserved by following these tips for waterproofing brick veneer.

Many homeowners are starting to add the ornamental pond to their property in order to enhance the overall look and feel associated with the home. While there are many different types of decorative small ponds that can be created, the Waukesha white stone wallstone pond is becoming one of the most sought after designs when it comes to ornamental ponds. Here, I will provide some basic insight on how you can go about creating a Waukesha white stone wallstone pond.

The Basics

When creating a wallstone pond with Waukesha white stone, it is important to know and understand that you will need a few basic supplies. First, of course, you will need an amount of Waukesha white stone that is relevant to the size of the pond that you are creating. For a basic ten by ten pond, you may need anywhere from 500 to 1,000 pieces of white stone. It all depends on the depth of the pond, and the size of Waukesha stone that you elect to use. You will also need some cement mix, as well as the tools that are required to lay and layer the cement that you will use.

Simple Construction

Once you have gathered your Waukesha white stone and the cement that is necessary to create your pond, it is time to get ready to construct your decorative pond. The simplest construction involves the ornamental pond that is circular in shape. You will want to outline the area where you will place the pond and lay down a section of cement. Once the circle has been filled, you should lay your first line of Waukesha white stone all the way around the circle. It is important that each piece of stone is stuck down into the cement so when it dries, it will be sturdy. This is when you should connect a small drainage pipe on the structure. This will allow water to drain when you feel the need to clean the structure.

Once the initial cement and line of Waukesha white stone completely dries and is set, you can place a layer of cement on top of these stones and then add the second layer. It is important that you continue this trend, until all of the stones are placed in such a manner that your depth is achieved. Once this is done, you should then allow the cement to dry. Once the cement on the Waukesha white stones are dry, you should then place cement inside the dimension of the pond.

It is important to ensure that this is set as smooth and evenly as possible. Once this is dry, you can then add a basic pond liner and a cap to the end of the drainage pipe that you installed earlier. You are then ready to fill and decorate your pond with plants, and other items! Once this is done, you have successfully finished your Waukesha white stone decorative wallstone pond!

Katie Buyer

Looking for a Waukesha White stone supplier? View the many different styles of Waukesha White that Halquist Stone has to offer.

Cleaning a headstone can be fun and also profitable. Fun in regards to the peace & pleasure one will receive from working to clean up the memorial of a loved one. Profitable in the way of making good money offering this service once this skill is learned. The good news is that the skill of cleaning headstones can be learned real quickly.

How to clean a headstone…

First you must determine what type of material the headstone is made of. Just because we call them a “headstone” doesn’t necessarily mean they are made of stone although generally they are. Headstones can be made from metals (typically bronze) or out of just about any other type of long lasting material. This information however will only cover metal and stone types of grave makers.

To find out the type of stone or metal we can look at a few things. Number one appearance. Using your basic knowledge what does the stone look like? Color and textures will tell you a lot. Second, you can also tell the type of stone by the date. Certain types of stones or metal were more popular depending on the era of burial. Finally, if you aren’t confidant with your previous judgments, you can ask a cemetery caretaker their opinion and chances are they will be spot on. Whatever you do, nail down the type of headstone before you begin the cleaning as different materials require different methods.

Next, you will want to know what you want to clean. Is the stone just a few years old and slightly dull due to dirt, debris or hard water? Or is the stone several years old and in need of several different treatments to remove perhaps moss and lichens or other naturals stains? Is the material faded and in need of a deep cleaning and polish? Determining what you need done will help you know what supplies are need and what processes to use.

When it comes to the work itself don’t be bashful. Most of these markers are not as delicate as they seem; however, here are a few warnings and suggestions.

Be sure the stone is stable. You do not want to knock it over or break off any pieces. If a stone is crumbling chances are you will not be able to clean it with out causing further damage. Also, be sure to test out any type of chemical or cleaning solvent on a small area before covering the more visible parts of the headstone. Look for any type of reaction or color change before you continue. If using chemical based products, always keep nearby vegetation safe by wiping up and away said chemicals before they hit the ground, and always follow product instructions using the proper safety equipment as called for.

Your knowledge of headstone cleaning will grow as you work with the different types of materials including marble, granite, bronze, and limestone. As you become well first in grave tending, you can offer your services and make a handsome profit.

For more complete information on headstone cleaning, products, and methods please visit http://www.headstonecleaning.info

Kendrick Lester is better known as the “Mad Scientist” of the small business world. He specializes in experimenting with simple small business models that have worked for several people over the years and “spicing” them up for bigger beefier profits.

Limestone is very durable and is an extremely good choice for a fireplace!

However, limestone is also rather soft and relatively porous, so it does require care from the householder to prevent stains and grubby marks spoiling the surface – especially for new limestone fireplaces!

A few important points for first time buyers!

Your limestone fireplace should be chemically sealed with a good quality sealant. The better sealants do not change the colour of the limestone to any degree, but prevent easy penetration of possible stains from getting into the stone. Your fireplace supplier should either seal your fireplace for you, (probably at extra cost) or provide a tin of liquid sealant for you to paint over the surface yourself (also probably at extra cost). These sealants cost around £20 or more per tin, so if you see one for much less, don’t use it, as it may not be good enough, and could darken your limestone fireplace colour!

If you have a limestone hearth, this should be sealed twice. Leave the first coat to completely dry and then add the second. Make sure you do not apply too much sealer, as this could cause a change to the surface if soaked!

You may have to repeat the complete sealing process after about six months or a year, especially if the fireplace is for solid fuel. After that, your limestone fireplace will probably not require any further chemical sealing.

Cleaning Limestone Fireplaces

The best way to clean off a grubby mark from your limestone fireplace is simply to use a clean cotton cloth dampened with very dilute washing up liquid. Do not soak the stone though!

If you have coffee or wine etc, spill onto your limestone fireplace surface don’t panic, just clean it off thoroughly with a dampened cloth and everything should be fine.

A number of things not to do:

1. Never use wax or spray polishes on a limestone fireplace, as these products can darken the surface of the limestone and create patches.
2. Never use kitchen or bathroom cleaners, as they could react with the limestone surface.
3. Never allow cigarettes to be placed on the stone surface, the heat could cause a brown scar.
4. Never stand vases with flowers directly on the limestone surface, as this could cause a permanent ring mark!
5. Never stand red wine, tea or coffee etc, directly on your limestone fireplace -stains and ring marks could result!
6. Never stand coal or logs directly on the fireplace surface – damage and stains may result!
7. Never plaster down to, or on to a limestone fireplace – the stone will take up colour from the plaster.

The above list of “don’t do’s” for limestone, can also be found here on the Money Saving Expert Forum, as I posted it there in the first instance, prior to writing this article!

Real Fires, Limestone Fireplaces and Cracking caused by heat!It is important to be aware that limestone can crack from the heat of a real fire!

A limestone hearth section, which is close to a real fire can become extremely hot, whilst the edges of the hearth can stay relatively cool. Given the right length of time, a limestone hearth, is virtually guaranteed to crack!

There are things you can do to overcome this type of problem… One of the most common, is to have a limestone hearth cut / sectioned and re-sealed for real fire use!

To achieve this, the hearth is cut into a number of sections, and then reassembled with joins… These joins act as expansion joints. In addition to this, the hearth is normally then backed by high temperature cement, for extra protection!

The joints in the hearth should now prevent the stress spreading across the surface and therefore prevent the hearth from cracking – a heat plate could also be used, to assist in protecting the limestone from the heat and scratches.

Buck Richards, Fireplace Designer

I hope this information is helpful… Learn more about this subject here